Count on Anna Sui to break up what’s become a black-and-white Fashion Week with a riot of color.
Ever the rock chick, Sui referenced ’60s Carnaby Street and Mary Quant – with a touch of western influences (pairing her frocks with cowboy boots, for instance). She also updated the babydoll dress of the early ’90s, adding an empire waist and structure. It was, all in all, a welcome respite from the grays that have so far dominated the runways this year.
Ditto Marchesa, the much-anticipated line from Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. They showed strapless, backless, bodyskimming confections, with Asian influences such as obi belts, sculpted origami closures and fan-pleated bodices.
You could cherry-pick the gowns that would make it to red carpet, like a dangerously low backless mustard chiffon gown and a strapless cream dancer dress with a silver-rose motif.
Vivienne Tam, however, stuck with the trends, and paraded a series of dull and uninspired clothes heavy in the palette of gray. She gave a nod to her ostensible inspiration, Shanghai, but, on the whole, there were far too many pieces reminiscent of Ann Taylor Loft.
Yohji Yamamoto finally hit the nail on the head for fall, producing the best collection ever from his longtime collaboration with Adidas. Yamamoto presented a goth and ’80s streetwear-inspired wardrobe for sleek city boys and girls. From work to wine bars to weddings, he had it all covered – yes, there was a Y-3 Adidas-striped wedding dress!
Grace Jones rocked the house at Diesel, wearing a slick, studded, leather outfit with thigh-high boots and garter belts and yodeling to “Rebel Rebel.” Models strutted in studded leather pants, distressed denim and military-style coats – what Diesel does best.
It was the schoolhouse that rocked at Peter Som and Michael Kors. Som’s “Dead Poets Society” suits, sweaters and plaids were accessorized with heels, flowered stockings and fur capelets. All-American Kors looked inspired by a Big 10 football game, all the way down to the raccoon coat for men (his was updated in nutria). Menswear-inspired plaids and foulards lent sophistication to pleated skirts, as did plush “cashgora” and fur trim.
Only eight of his 72 looks were red-carpet numbers – feeling sporty, Michael?
The world may not be black and white, but Richard Chai and Derek Lam are the latest designers to offer that clarity. Chai’s ultra-feminine billowing “cloud” dresses seemed to hover on their own. Lam’s aesthetic is about making his customer look conventionally pretty, but he took a harder edge for fall: it’s ’80s new wave – again! Pleated minis were paired with black Lycra leggings, and delicate one-shouldered dresses were roughed up with black leather belts.