A southern view over Mala Strana and the Vltava/George Apostolidis
As befits a smaller city geared heavily towards welcoming the world (okay, fine, let’s just have it out – this place is a big tourist Hoover), it sometimes seems like half of every block is given over to hotels. But as also befits a city of this type, lots of hotels get opened here because it’s an alright way to make a living, not because there’s any real interest in being in the hospitality industry. That makes narrowing down your options to the truly worthy relatively simple.
Before digging in, though, let’s talk geography. In terms of seeing the city, you could stay just about anywhere along the metro or tram network (both are quite dependable) and never be more than a short hop from anything. Most of the time, in fact, walking is the best way to get anything done – Prague is that small. Click through for a brief guide to the ‘hoods (and our top hotel picks). LAY OF THE LAND
1) We’ll start at the river, looking north. To the west you have Mala Strana, which rests seductively in the valley between Petrin Hill and the Prague Castle, spilling up and out the back as Hradcany. For our purposes, these are essentially the same neighborhood.
2) Across the river is, of course, the Old Town, which you’ve seen in a million pictures, to the point that once you get there you feel like you’ve been there before.
3) To the south you have the New Town (which isn’t so new, but definitely newer than its northern neighbor). Here’s where you’ll find Wenceslas Square, aka Prague’s Times Square.
4) Behind Wenceslas Square you have the residential areas of Vinohrady and Zizkov.
That’s that, really — this isn’t to say that there aren’t other neighborhoods (grim/vaguely cutting edge Holesovice to the north of the river, industrial Smichov to the south of Mala Strana, almost-suburban Dejvicka behind Prague Castle and no-metro-stop Vysehrad to the south of the New Town), but on a first visit, with options ranging from budget to luxury in the more central areas, it’s not necessary to stay in any of these districts, unless, say, you really want to experience the Communist-era architecture of the Praha (in Dejvicka) or a charming, cheap pension near the castle ruins in Vysehrad – in which case, please enjoy.)
So why include Vinohrady and Zizkov in our preferred list? One, because the Metro (Line A) runs right through both and can have you at the foot of the Prague Castle (and everywhere in between) within mere minutes – the other two lines require transfers for Mala Strana/Castle Area) and two, because both are not only interesting and often vibrant – they just feel like home, and are great to retreat to after a day navigating the cobblestones in the center. (Finally, it always feels like you’re paying less for everything out here.)
A word about prices: Prague adds scores of rooms each year, but it’s still not enough to meet peak demand – rates can be stunning. Relax, though – this isn’t Paris. Yet. For every high, there’s a low or three, and discounts aren’t hard to find. Not to mention the plethora of decent cheap options. You’ve just got to figure out which are the best. Speaking of which — here are seven top picks.
THE LIST
A room at the Triska, just steps from the pub.
BUDGET
Multi-tasking isn’t always the best idea in business, but Miss Sophie’s, a recent addition to the inner Vinohrady area (it’s actually south of Wenceslas Square) manages to please everyone looking to stay affordably, offering cheap as dirt hostel accommodations (from $18 for a bed), private rooms (from $75 for a single) and nice furnished apartments (from $98). The style is modern, the building is old, there’s a cool lounge in the cellar and a terrace for summers. Anyone young will love this place, but the apartments are most definitely all-ages, located in a building across the street (Melounova 3).
Out in Zizkov, the more traditional but still quite fresh Hotel Triska is too pretty to be so cheap, but then again, most things in this neighborhood seem cheaper than elsewhere in town, without being off the map. Of the 57 rooms, most are decorated in a pleasing traditional style – the best asset we can think of, however, is the location, next door to the good-looking Potrefena Husa pub (part of a brewer-branded group, ahem), where you could quite easily get stuck (Vinohradska 105).
Cue the actors: In the garden at the movie set-like U raka.
MODERATE
The only thing to remind you that you’re not in some remote Czech village is the busy road you can hear atop the wall that faces the impossibly perfect-looking U raka, tucked way away from the crowds at Prague Castle, in the Novy Svet area of Hradcany. Imagine the Castle’s famous Golden Lane, with its tiny little houses and narrow streets, but nary a tour group in sight. There are just six rooms in the compound (think small hacienda hotel-type layout) that includes a beautiful garden, and a wood fire always seems to be burning somewhere. Really, you’ll think you’re in a movie back here. There’s a cafe in house as well, where you can do light meals, precluding the need to leave (from $211, Cerninska 10).
If you want atmosphere but would rather not be so removed from the heart of the action, look no further than the Residence Retezova, steps from the square in Old Town and with a branch of roaster/cafe Ebel in house. Beautifully furnished units (all are apartments) range from an intimate loft studio to a sprawling top floor flat suitable for families. Book four nights in high season and get the fifth free (starting rates from $178-435, Retezova 9).
Barego Bar at the Mandarin Oriental.
LUXURY
Prague’s high-high-end lodging scene is in a state of flux right now
– it wasn’t too long ago, of course, that the story began and ended with the Four Seasons, which is basically on the Charles Bridge, Old Town side. Today, it’s not that simple, and in fact, though the hotel did a lot of work during the lengthy closure following the flooding of the Vltava, management are just now getting down to the business of stripping out the painfully old-school Four Seasons decor (you know the drill – gross patterned green carpet, light wood paneling, could be anywhere, etc.) in favor of interiors that complement the whimsical and colorful nature of the city surrounding it. For that, they’ve brought in Pierre-Yves Rochon, somewhat of a Four Seasons golden boy these days (George V, Washington D.C.). The project is just now getting underway though, so know before you go, exactly what’s going to be out of commission or under construction when you get there. Of course, there remains one constant – service won’t falter (2007 bed and breakfast package from $297, Veleslav??nova 2a).
Across the river is the more reclusive and atmospheric Mandarin Oriental, carved out of a handful of historic buildings (with just a little bit of new architecture that blends in quite well) that cluster together in a pretty back-street area of Mala Strana, steps from the Charles Bridge (really, what isn’t). It’s hard to know what the hotel is just now, which isn’t surprising, since it’s only been open since October. To like (very much) right now, however, are the rooms in the old part of the building that feel like suites with their high-ceilings and oversized bathrooms – no two rooms appear to be laid out the same, even though the decor is all very classic Mandarin – clean, restful, comfortable (particularly the beds). Staff, from the small but good spa to the handsome bar and beautiful restaurant (excellent food, no easy task in this town) are eager but stiff – give them a few more months to ease in to their jobs (currently offering online rates from $248, with rack rates of $435, Nebovidska 459/1).
Perhaps more interesting at this point, at least from the perspective of fulfilling all your wildest Prague fantasies, would be the bizarre and colorful Alchymist Grand Hotel & Spa, which alternates between being a beyond-elegant retreat and a Japanese love hotel. Pack a sense of humor, however, and the crazy color schemes, the ornate furniture and the chandeliers above the beds (not to mention the spa, complete with sushi bar) could all add up to one of the sexiest places you’ve ever stayed. Just try to avoid the Captain Bringdown types who filter in from the American Embassy across the street, though they mostly seem to stick to the street-side cafe, where, as with the rest of the hotel, the interior has to be seen to be believed – you can skip the bad pastries, though (current specials from $250, Trziste 19).